I hadn't realised what a gem I was missing as I regularly passed by on my way either to the Lakes or to join the M6 heading towards the northern Pennines and Scotland. Arnside was a real find. Sitting on the estuary of the River Kent where it meets Morecambe Bay, the village enjoys panoramic views of the Lakeland fells. It is uncrowded, yet really accessible, and the perfect location for a slightly different Lake District cottage holiday. The deciduous woodlands, limestone grasslands and coastal salt marshes are enclosed by low limestone hills creating a perfect environment for rare butterflies and marshland birds. The wooded hill of Arnside Knott , a high flat rock modest by Lakeland standards and largely owned by the National Trust, is a good vantage point for views of Morecambe Bay and the Lake District mountains. The day we walked up it the autumn sun was milky and shone a pale light onto the bay, picking out the contours of the winding channels, sandbanks and mudflats in an almost mystical silver light. As we watched the sun set over the bay we could make out two shapes moving across it, seemingly too fast for people on foot and therefore perhaps horses or motorised vehicles. Out in the bay tides turn quickly as the tidal bore, a dangerous and swift wave of water races across the sands and up the River Kent. It is from Arnside where you start the exhilarating 8-mile Cross Bay Walk to Grange-over-Sands, led by Cedric Robinson the official Queen's Guide to the Sands since 1963. We returned to Arnside as dusk fell, smoke curling from the elegant Victorian villas overlooking the bay and welcoming pub lights shining onto the quayside. This former fishing port has retained many of the features from its past - a small yet beautiful pier and port area provide an enduring reminder of Arnside's history. The arrival of the railway brought visitors to the area and led to the building of the many grand houses in the village by well-to-do Victorians, with their fascination for the sea. The railway adds to the scene with a long, low viaduct crossing the river to carry trains on to Grange-over-Sands. Take your time to discover the intimate nooks and crannies of this unspoilt area, lovely in itself yet convenient for the nearby Lakes and Yorkshire Dales.
