My parents were delighted to hear that I would be returning to Mallaig on the west coast of Scotland to celebrate my birthday in a holiday cottage. I had spent many childhood holidays there, travelling out to the Inner and Outer Hebrides aboard the island ferries. We never called it island-hopping in those days, but in reality it was exactly that. We visited at the end of May - just as when I was younger - when the days are long yet the highest peaks still hold onto snow in the corries. As keen fell-walkers we had decided to climb Ben Nevis during our stay so our island-hopping was restricted to a single day's sailing out to Eigg and Rum - the latter receiving a good deal of attention recently thanks to the BBC's television coverage of its stags on Autumn Watch. We made an early start for the harbour although things did not look too promising as the weather was, as the Scots say, 'dreich' - wet and unseasonal in temperature. As we set sail from Mallaig on Caledonian McBrayne's MV Lochnevis, the only feature visible in the grey light was the famous white sand s of Morar. Our destination, though not far away, was hidden from view by the sea mist, providing ample opportunity to look around the ship. The on-board facilities had improved significantly since my childhood with a cosy cafe and bar, satellite TV and GPS screens plotting our course. Arriving at Eigg the ship docked on the modern quay and the daily delivery from the mainland of post and provisions was unloaded. With the opening of new piers on Eigg and Rum in 2004 there was no longer the need for the mother ship to stand by while cargo and passengers were transferred to and fro on small boats, an operation I had watched in fascination as a young boy. As we sailed on to Rum the weather began to lift and the splendour of these isles began to reveal themselves - Eigg distinguished by its flat top in contrast to the craggy peaks of Rum - and a solitary porpoise rode the waves alongside. At Rum we disembarked in a sheltered loch and the ship sailed off to Muck, returning in four hours to collect the handful of people who had gone ashore. Once supporting a thriving community, the island had been 'cleared' to make way for sheep and deer. Kinloch Castle, a grand Edwardian building used for hosting the deer stalking parties each autumn, was built at the head of the loch and the current, small population live around this bay. Almost next to the castle is the village hall, the centre of community life. When we stopped by musicians' instruments were still set up on the tiny stage as if last night's ceilidh had halted at dawn to restart at dusk. We enjoyed a warming drink served by someone who was doubling as the shopkeeper next door, apparently not too concerned about this sudden influx of visitors from the mainland. We chatted with the owner of a small arts and crafts shop who was very positive about the island's future. In 2007, a trust was established to acquire and manage land and buildings for the island community. When complete, hopefully in 2010, it will take community ownership of approximately 150 hectares of mixed land, three crofts, 10 domestic properties and eight non-domestic properties in and around the village. As if the weather was matching our mood, the sun came out and we sailed back to Mallaig with Skye's awe-inspiring Cuillin mountains our constant companions. Later, back at my parents, I made us all a cup of tea. About to sit down, I noticed in the cupboard a small plate etched with the Caledonian McBrayne logo. Obviously 'borrowed' many years ago, I said nothing but promised to myself that one day I would return it to its rightful owners - any excuse to go back to those beautiful isles.
